My wool plaid chore coat and a review of Paola Workwear Jacket

 

I attribute it to the pandemic, but my dad would be right in style right now with his corduroys and flannel shirts (I'm sure he would be tickled). The "shacket" (shirt-jacket) is apparently a new discovery (I did actually talk about this with my mother in law, who has worn these around the house since I've known her, but she just was like, "of course, it's comfortable." True, true.)

So I decided I wanted a chore jacket for outside but sort of like a shacket. Sort of like these from Pinterest

.

And I had this fabric from Walmart (3yds/$8 score!) 
(see video showing a burn test)

I reviewed lots of pattern options including the Ilford, Julien, Foreman, Rhett and others. Then I ran across Paola, a free pattern from The Fabric Store. It looked perfect and you can't beat the price. Lots of people have made it and while many of them had feedback, there were no real warnings.

I picked size 24 and did a small shoulder modification instead of going with the 22 and then changing the armscye and all that. I did a bunch of research and decided I needed 4-6" ease on the sleeve so I then did a 1" full bicep modification. Sleeves might be a smidge long, but with a sweater underneath some of that will go away.

Now some critiquing of the pattern:

• It's in this weird packaged/embedded pdf that must confuse enough people that they have a whole page on how to find the actual pattern, on the actual pattern. Really unnecessary. They could zip or they could have multiple files or one larger file
• Instructions are not in the download, just on the blog, and for parsimony/efficiency, I guess. Anything they have previously described how to do they just link. Sort of annoying because, sure I know how to do felled seams but I still want to make sure they mean what I think they mean, you know? Plus, what if this goes away? I guess I should pdf their instruction page to be safe and save it with the pattern?
• They take a lot for granted.  As others have pointed out, they never tell you to cut interfacing, nor do they tell you to stay stitch. I sort half stay stitched after I realized bad things were going down (see this useful video for why/how to stay stitch).
• They have you insert the sleeves flat like you would for a knit, maybe because of felling the seams, but I saw that after I had completed the side seams. I just did 2 rows of gathering stitches between the notches and set in/eased in the sleeves. I then went back and did the flat felling and it was fine.
• Bottom pockets are a tad small and not super convenient. I would probably make them with a side entry?

About my experience:

• I'm sure this would be easier in linen and something without stripes. Also doing the facing and the collar with a coordinating corduroy would be less itchy.
• I really, really, shouldn't make something without enough thread in the house that matches. I basically swapped it in/out so I only used it where absolutely required.
• My topstitching doesn't show (and I spent so much effort on it!) - I recommend jeans topstitching thread in a contrasting color.
• Staystitch!
• No buttons yet - I accidentally bought 4 instead of 5 and I'm also worried about messing it up. I should have used black interfacing. I don't know how everyone seems to have mountains of interfacing around - I'm always piecing it out of scraps.