Bianca hack: high low split hem



Did you know there are approximately a million ways to do a split hem? I knew I wanted to hack the Bianca to have a split hem and then I googled it and what a variety!

Some options:

  • Band or no band?
  • Hem the band with the shirt or separately?
  • High low or equal?
  • Is only the band split or is the seam split or is the band split half way up?

There are YouTube tutorials for all of these and my phone charger is kaput so I'll just give a high level overview

I cut the front hem at the cropped length and the back hem at the hip length.
I cut bands 5" x the exact length of the hem.
I put the pocket on per instructions.
I sewed the bands on to the front and the back, unfolded, with right sides facing. 
I marked 2" up from the seam on the front, and sewed the side seam with a regular machine from there up to the armpit and down the sleeve. I pressed-ish (this is velour) that open. 


I then folded up the band so it just covered the seam and pinned that. At each end, I tucked in a 3/8" hem. 



I cover stitched across the front and the back and around the vent. (actually, straight stitched around vent and used toiletpaper to get my machine to deal with the hem. It did not want to!)
Finally added cuffs as usual. Voila!




The fabric is Walmart gray velour (so soft!)






What I learned - probably do this with a thinner fabric than this heavy velour. Still consider making the hem 87-90% of the bottom. This doesn't flip out but could pull in and look better. My hem method is solid, though. 


The Bianca is on sale until February 14, 2021. It comes in sizes B-M. (I received the pattern in return for testing it and providing useful feedback)
Here are some Pinspirations:
(Ready to Sew has this exact pattern:)




Edit: 
I ended up recording a video to hopefully clarify what I did and discuss options



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