New Cashmerette Vinton Pants

 

I'm a Cashmerette Club collaborator and got a year of All Access membership in return for trying this pattern.

This is the third of the patterns I've made as a collaborator. The Vinton Pants are a barrel leg casual pant made for medium weight wovens. They are a club pattern and come in 2 size ranges that fit hip 35"-62"

Fitting pants is a bit of a struggle for me, but these have seams down the front and back which helps a lot. 

I did a lot of looking around at various retail sites and Pinterest to get inspiration. I love the faced waist, but I wasn't excited about the pocket flaps. Things that stick out there tend to get caught on things. My first toile, I tried with just the pocket and no flap, but it's made to be sewn down except for the center section so it wasn't quite right. I ended up replacing the pocket with a patch pocket.

I am in the middle of fitting the Meriam trousers and I found that the full bum variation doesn't work for me. It is still way too short in the back rise and I have big flaps on the hips. So I started with my measured size - 18 - with the standard bum, graded to 20 at the waist, with an extra 1/2" at the two front seams. I also added 1" to the length of the legs

First toile:

Obviously needed more tummy room. Maybe too long. Pockets no. Is there something with the hips and inner thighs?

Pinned out a horizontal dart in the back and side leg. My legs look like < in two different planes. Not like |  or / as pants are designed for.

Needed lots of butt room, maybe some inner thigh. Need to add 3/4" to height of the back rise.

Got help from Saremy of SewSew Guild. And made another toile. 

Added at front and back seams by slashing and spreading. Removed 1/2" of the length I added. Added height to the center back rise. Took the darts out across the back of the leg and side of the leg. Added a slight bit at the fullest part of my hip at the side seam. Added at the front and back to the crotch extension. 

 After these, I took the crotch extensions back out, I added a little room at the calf (having a seam there is so convenient!), I made the back crotch curve more shallow, and I took in some at the back waist. I also needed to draft facings. Well, I cheated and just made the changes to the facings.

Time for the final. I had 59" wide twill from GStreet and I was able to cut these from 2.5yd. I used quilting cotton for the pockets. The only other change I made was to add more belt loops. I always wear a belt - elastic or no. 

Taking pictures - it was SO COLD!  I want to take more pictures with different tops.