Winter Running Sewing: Rain jacket

 

I had in my Winter Running Wardrobe plans to make a jacket. I had picked out a pattern and a fabric; however, the fabric just seemed a little thick for what I had in mind. Nevertheless, with the buckets and buckets of cold, cold rain we've been having this Spring, I opened the pattern to prepare it for the projector. Folks... that pattern looks like a bit of a mess. 

So I've been wearing my power wool midlayer with the vest and it's comfy even when soaked, but ugh. 

Here are some pictures of what I think I actually want now: 


Hip length, longer in the back. Semi-fitted. Fitted hood with a brim (or no brim but could be worn over ball cap). Raglan or other way of not having a shoulder seam. Pockets. Ventilation and/or breathable. Light. Elastic or tab adjusters at the wrist.

So why don't I buy? Well, $100-200. One of them has a max chest of 39.5". None go up to my hip size. And I mean they don't even fit the models that great. 

So I looked again and I re-examined the Learn MYOG Ultralight Windshell. Length is right, hood looks good, raglan, pockets, ... light, wrists... Ok. But it's really cut for a straight shape and it's from 30-52" chest and 30-51" lower waist (upper hip?)

ultralight sounds good. Only takes 2yds of the fancy fabric? yes! ... I purchased it, picked a size (48), and made a muslin. The hood was great. The sleeves - wow - fit nicely, but just a smidge too long. the top was fine but I needed a bunch at the hip. I graded out the side seams only by 1.25"

Ok, ready for the fancy fabric!  Did I want to go ahead and buy new?  Not really, not right away. Still smarting from the expensive one I'm not using. Ah-ha! I have the red fabric from walmart.

I also had a blue one that looked promising. I put them over a pan and put water on. The blue soaked it up like a sponge. (eek) but the red it just sat there for >30min. 

The white membrane does look a bit fragile so I decided to line with more dimple mesh/athletic wicking jersey. 

First step is the hood. I have all the hardware left from making the low waste anorak so I put in grommets and ran cord. I don't know that it's strictly necessary since the hood fits well. Also it would have been nicer to have thinner cord. For the brim stiffener, I cut a chunk from a piece of plastic that came in the bottom of a reusable shopping bag. it's a bit too stiff. 

Decided to add a chin guard and zipper guard. And I used more of the binding from Porcelynne. I didn't quite catch it and had to hand tack it to the lining. Also the zipper is 1/4" too long and I thought I could finesse it in or hand sew it over... but don't look too closely at the top.  I decided not to bag out the jacket but to just sew both, put them together and do the hems. I did add a hanging loop at the neck and I clean finished that. 


I did not seal any seams because I didn't want to mess with it. The jacket is really heavy but feels good. These pockets are really nice and were really easy to sew. The zipper moves freely.

I definitely want to make another from one of the recommended fabrics that doesn't need to be lined and is much lighter. I might shorten it a bit - I'll see after I wear this. I may add shaping in the back waist, too. I will also add vents and/or pit zips. This vent on a jacket at REI is really cool: 














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