First of all this was #notdraftedforme . I'm exactly one size out of her range and her range for this pattern is larger than her range for other patterns (I hope that's a good sign that she is interested in improving). I would like to not support companies that don't design for me, but I really, really, really LOVE all of her patterns. Honestly, I'd probably contribute to support her art alone and the pattern is a bonus.
Walking through my make.
Fabric: https://www.bigduckcanvas.com/discounted-fabrics-overstock-factory-seconds/10-oz-66-cotton-ripstop-made-n-the-usa-sand/
Construction.
I graded up the main pattern pieces the usual way and it's a straight a-line skirt. I didn't make a toile because my final fabric was $2.99 a yard. I did cut an extra half inch of seam allowance at the sides and yoke. When I basted together, it turns out I didn't need that so I cut it back off.
The pockets almost all had to be graded, too, which is a really nice touch because I've had other patterns with tiny little patches in the front that just look awkward on my size but look fine on smaller sizes (cough lyric cough). Except, yeah, I had to grade all of them, too.
I got the pattern printed in A0 and it took me 2 days to trace all the pieces I needed. In the tracing process I skipped copying over some information which was a mistake. I originally made the center back pleat an inch too small because I folded to the "cut here for no pleat" line instead of the center back line and they're not the same because seam allowance. I also had a hard time figuring out which lines were for each pocket. It wasn't obvious to me at the time that the pockets all have letters so the marking for where they go need to have the letters, too. I would say this is probably one pattern it would be really nice to just print your size and also be able to turn off the seam allowance lines.
Cutting - I didn't mark everything as I went but I did pin the pieces to the pattern. For big things like the fronts, backs, yokes, waistbands I put an x in Crayola washable marker on the wrong side. I should have done that for the pockets, too. I inadvertently cut 2 of some pockets so then I had to figure out which orientation I needed, too. Next time will be easier.
Sewing - watch seam allowances. Nothing on this skirt is at all difficult, there's just a lot of it. Do press as you go because that will help in following steps. I used a generic 80/12 universal needle and zigzagged instead of serging. I kinda figure ripstop shouldn't ravel? we shall see. I thought maybe my machine would have trouble where it's super thick but she was a champion! It only calls for one row of topstitching. I just used the same thread. It would be nice - particularly if you have 2 machines - to use a topstitch thread - also I used 1/8" but I don't know if I was supposed to use more. I have used the triple stitch for topstitching in the past but I find it difficult to be accurate with that, it uses a ton of thread, and it's slow.
I had a little trouble with the buttonholes because the weight of the fabric had to be supported to not pull it off. Also I still need to add an inside snap to secure the underside of the flap in the front.
All in all it's a great pattern with great instructions. Highly recommended.
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