I would like to keep a couple of blazers around and a suit or coordinates that could look like a suit in case I need to look more put together at work. I can't remember having a blazer or suit jacket that looked good on me *except* for the custom tailored service dress blue jacket I got when I was stationed in Newport. Most jackets have the darts in the wrong place, are baggy at the bust if they fit the hips, and are tight on the sleeves. Clearly, this is something I should make for myself. I'm a fairly advanced sewist, but I have generally not been interested in couture techniques or heavy duty tailoring except as mild curiosity.
This year I have some blazer plans. First, the Heather Blazer from Friday Pattern Company because it's less structured, oversized and looks easier overall. Max chest 60. Max hips 63.
I didn't do a muslin, but I carefully measured the pieces and ended up I think going up a size on the sleeves.
I had scored a wool tweed in a 2yd Walmart bundle
I was relieved when I tried the outer shell on because it fit pretty well. The shoulders weren't awesome so I tried adding a 3/8" shoulder pad to one side and you can really see the difference. I'll have to get another pair before I make the Auburn.
Someone in the SewSew Guild pointed out that a sleeve head would help it collapsing. This video is excellen: https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2015/02/13/video-how-to-sew-and-install-a-sleeve-head . So I put in a sleeve head.
And here it is!
Here's a pinterest board with inspiration: https://www.pinterest.com/cpikas/oversized-blazer/
Overall, the pattern is nicely written and goes together well. Any confusing parts are easier to understand using her sew along ideo and various blog posts.
Next up, a more tailored Auburn
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