Sunday, July 23, 2017

More on my Simplicity 1916.

In a previous post I posted that I had finished this and some of the changes that I've made to the pattern. In this post show a little more detail on what changes I made, show some pictures of it on me that my daughter took, and link to some of the advice I followed.

Pattern review has 44 reviews of this pattern so there's a lot of advice to follow. Some of the most helpful was from MsKnitSew.
But her full bust adjustment seemed too much for knits that could stretch and that also have the overlap. it was more like what you would do on a woven fabric. Instead I follow these instructions from Maria Denmark for changes that weren't too great. What's so helpful about her advice is it talks about going from the high bust and then only adding on the difference between what a b cup would be and what you need.
I used Cashmerette's full bicep adjustment. I had never even heard of this kind of adjustment--I just thought you would add on to the sides-- until I ran across it on somebody else's pattern review but I'm glad I tried it. As I said I needed about 2 inches and then I even made the seam a narrower seam allowance. I made the adjustment and then put the sleeve cap back on. It still for nicely into the sleeve.

You can see in the picture that I'm not wearing very smooth pants but still I probably could use more sway back adjustment. I forgot to mention that I did grade to a 24 at the hip I probably could have even gone farther in the middle of the back.

Also could have taken in a little bit at the back middle of the shoulders at the back of the neck. I don't know if it got stretched out in sewing or if it's just too much fabric back there but there's kind of a little bubble back there by the back of my nape of my neck.
After all this I can see why people spend a lot more money to get fancy patterns that are specifically made for people my shape. The big for one needed so much that I practically made a new pattern out of it. But now I can reuse it without a lot of extra work.

Saturday, July 22, 2017

Knit blouse for me

This is a Simplicity 1916 pattern.
I'm so spoiled by making stuff for the children that pretty much I can make the size on the package and it fits perfectly well.  for me, it's much different. even though it should be my size it required lots of changes.

I need to edit this to come back and add all the links but I saw a bunch of pattern reviews and made those changes first. First I added more than an inch to the overlapping sides on the top for more modesty. Next I lengthened the top almost an inch and a half based on other suggestions.

I did a simple full bust adjustment and that didn't take into account lengthening so I lengthen the top a little too - about half an inch. Then I did a full bicep adjustment. I couldn't believe that the top that was supposed to be a size 18 or so supposed to fit after doing the full bust adjustment had a sleeve circumference more than two inches less than a shirt that fits me well.
Well after all these changes I didn't really have enough fabric. I think the arms might be cut upside down but it doesn't feel like there's a lot of nap and the image seems to be symmetric. Also the point is incompletely pointy on the end of the overlapping top pieces. I was sure I would have to do something different with the armhole but that actually works just fine because of the way I did the full bicep adjustment.

The fabric is super soft and thin and very nice it's probably a rayon actually instead of a cotton. It would have been much easier in a thicker less stretchy fabric. It should be very comfortable to wear though. I'll have to post a picture of it on I wonder if I should have done more swayback type adjustment.